SAQ controversy takes Aylmer winemaker by surprise
Laurent Robillard-Cardinal
The world of wine is going through a rough patch after a group sued several California wine producers this March over alleged excessive arsenic levels in their wine. By extension, the SAQ, already dealing with media attacks for selling imported bulk wine, was blamed by some consumers for retailing the wines involved in the suit.
These media reports surprised Aylmer winemaker Raymond Huneault, in the wine-making business since 1999. “I like working with the SAQ laboratory; I usually deal with the same chemist and while he’s strict, he’s good. When we talk over the phone he helps me out,” he told the Bulletin.
Before consumers can get their hands on his “Clos Baillie” wines and cider, or any wine sold in the province, the product must pass the SAQ’s lab tests. While the process is rigorous and remains the only way for wine producers to enter the Quebec market, Huneault welcomes it. “Before bottling, I send it to the SAQ’s laboratory which checks all my samples to ensure they conform and are free of any substance that could cause health problems. The lab checks for several elements, including arsenic. Sometimes the chemist tells me I need to change a few things,” added Huneault, whose comments strengthen the message the SAQ is trying to convey. The SAQ advises that its lab tests over 10,000 samples annually for numerous substances. “The SAQ complies with federal standards of maximum acceptable concentrations (MAC) for arsenic in juices, nectars and drinks, set by Health Canada, which is established at 0.1 part per million,” reports the SAQ. If any product exceeds certain levels, it is refused. Apart from arsenic, other substances checked include pesticides and other chemicals. “We use as little as possible, even organic pesticides,” noted Huneault. Even organic pesticides, such as sulphur and copper, are generally not applied on vines before harvest.
Other substances can appear in the wine during the clarification and stabilization processes. “There are certain procedures to clarify the wine that can pose a danger. We clarify the wine as naturally as possible,” added Huneault. The most natural process, racking, is favoured by Clos Baillie. “For the tartaric acid to fall to the bottom I use what’s called a cold stabilization, and I also filter the wine, but not much. What’s going on now is that certain wine producers use egg whites or fish products to clarify the wine, but producers must indicate this on their bottles. Others use chemical substances to clarify the wine.”
According to Huneault, wine producers are feeling pressure from North American consumers to clarify their wines. “The big problem in America is that wines must be very limpid. It’s almost exaggerated. In Europe people are accustomed to having a little residue in their wine and they accept it,” noted the Aylmer winemaker. “Therefore, producers in France don’t clarify the wine as much (and foreign substances are not in evidence). If you clarify your wine too much or spend excessive time filtering the wine, it will taste like water. It will be free of character.”
Residue commonly found in wine is either tartrate, present in many products, or yeast. Both are harmless, says Huneault. “Consumers should gather as much information they can to make an informed decision,” he added.
